The Momiji Diaries – Part 3 – Kyoto, Nishi Honganji palace
by Jade Pavilions on 08/05/09 at 5:08 pm
Part 3 of David’s Momiji Diary, parts 1 and 2 are available from the Jade Pavillions author page.
9th November, Kyoto
As the group were arriving later that day I visited some local sites not on the group itinerary. The first was Nishi Honganji palace, which has a splendid ornate entranceway reminiscent of the Heian period architecture. Regrettably much of the palace was closed for renovation and access to the garden was blocked. In the main courtyard however, was an excellent display of chrysanthemums (grandiflorum). 
I walked a few blocks past the Kyoto tower to the garden of Shosei-an which is part of the “sister” Higashi Honganji palace. Shosei-an is a stroll garden with a winding path around a reasonable sized lake with islands, a number of tea houses, a Chinese covered bridge and an interesting ceremonial gate surrounded by cherry trees, a maple walk and a plum orchard. Indeed a garden for all seasons in the middle of the city – a haven of tranquillity.
I continued walking towards the eastern hills for a couple of miles to the Tofuku-ji temple complex renowned for it’s maple valley and many temples with some interesting and controversial gardens designed by Shigemori Mirei. The entrance to Tofuku-ji takes you over an impressive Chinese corridor bridge over the maple valley. The temple has a splendid rock arrangement of a flight of cranes (garden of the Abbott’s hall) followed by the northern garden of clipped shrubs in a chequerboard fashion leading onto another where the pattern is reproduced as paving stones set down in moss. This proved controversial at the time as it departed from the Japanese tradition. 
The garden is being admired here by a group of local girls in their fine kimonos and obis. The eastern garden garden beside a corridor had an unusual collection of round granite pillars arranged as the constellation of the great bear. I note that the brochure describes the Tosu (Lavatory) as an Important Cultural Property! Another temple garden in the complex of Ryogin-an designed by Shigemori portrays a dragon emerging above dark clouds. The last garden of the complex was Tentoku-ji, which is only open when the bell flowers are in bloom and at maple viewing time. The garden is a Momoyama period garden of seasonal flowers that bring colour to the fresh green moss; a very yin garden. It has a wonderful bell shaped window with sliding shoji panels providing an excellent framed photo opportunity of the garden beyond. My favourite garden of the day was that of Shosei-en, a hven of peace and tranquility right in the heart of the city.
Having transferred to the 4 star luxury of the Righa Royal hotel with it’s electric loos and 4 star cuisine, I welcomed the group to Kyoto and we took a tour of the station complex with it’s many restaurants and cafes, the subway and bus station. Navigating Kyoto is easy as many of the signs, transport announcements etc are in both Japanese and English.
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