In the footsteps of the Shogun
by Jade Pavilions on 06/04/09 at 11:54 am
After centuries of feudal wars, Japan was united following the battle of Sekigahara in 1600 under the Tokugawa shogunate. The centre of political power moved to a new capital Edo (modern day Tokyo) on the swampy plains of the Kanto although the Emperor and court remained in Kyoto. As with all military regimes there was a need to secure good lines of communication and supply between Kyoto and Edo in particular. With this in mind five main highways were constructed along Chinese lines modelled on those originally instituted by Ghengis Khan. Of these, two linked Kyoto and Edo; the Tokaido (Eastern coast) road was the largest and busiest although it has been lost under motorway and shinkansen tracks, whilst the Nakasendo (middle mountain) way exists in part today. This article is a result of researching a walk along a small sector of the Nakasendo as part of the Society’s Autumn tour to Kyoto/Matsue.
The Tokugawa shogunate introduced a system of alternate residence (sankin kotai) whereby the daimyo’s were required to spend part of their time in the new capital at the Shogun’s request and leave their families behind, effectively as hostages, when they returned to their estates in Kyoto and Osaka. In return the Shogun granted land and permission for the daimyo’s to build mansions and gardens in Edo. The following two centuries saw a flourish of garden building and many survive today from this period.
The highways were carefully laid out with predetermined widths and villages at convenient intervals (every five miles or so), designated as post towns to provide accommodation and provisions. Local villages were co-opted to supply additional labour, horses, food and utensils at peak times. Whilst early use of the highways was for the transmission of messages, conveying diplomatic missions, spies and important goods and materials, they were soon to be used for unofficial travel. In later years they were used for pilgrimage and commerce with the development of a richer merchant class. Artists were commissioned to commemorate the highways in wood block prints. Hiroshige completed the series of works called the “69 stations of the Nakasendo”. The Nakasendo is over 300 miles in length and travels from the Sanjo bridge in Kyoto, follows the eastern shore of lake Biwa, through Hikone, striking eastwards over the mountains at Sekigahara, across the Gifu plains, skirting the southern Japanese Alps into the Kiso valley. The road travels up the valley, crosses the plain between Matsumoto and Karuisawa before dropping down to the Kanto plain, linking up with the Arakawa river valley and on to the Nihon bridge in Edo. The section passing through the Kiso valley included eleven post towns, collectively known as Kiso-ji and renowned for it’s spectacular scenery. The Magome to Tsumago section has been restored as a hiking trail and the towns have been preserved as they were two hundred years ago.
On a damp, mid November Sunday we travelled by train to Nakatsugawa via Nagoya and onward by local bus to Magome to experience travelling the Nakasendo. The old town of Magome is a ribbon development around the Nakasendo road which travels up a steep hill with all signs of modern traffic and street furniture banned. The road is lined by period inns, restaurants and shops selling local products. A stream runs alongside the road and many of the buildings have overshot water wheels to provide energy. The picture shows a small water wheel at a bend in the road.
As you emerge from the town there are wonderful views of Mount Ena (over 6500′), which was particularly atmospheric with the clearing cloud. The picture shows the misty valley towards Mt Ena with a small tea plantation in the foreground (left). The road steadily rises through the small hamlet of Magome-toge to the reach the pass at 2650′, where there is a monument and a small tea house providing basic refreshments. The monument contains the following verse “These white clouds evoke memories of my long walk under fresh green leaves”
The descent down to the Kiso valley itself is through ancient woodland with gushing streams. The remains of a former barrier station is to be found, established to ensure that valuable timber was not smuggled out of the valley illegally. As a result the Kiso valley is today a lush forest of cypresses, cedars, zelkovas and broad leaf trees. A small abandoned tea house is to be found by a weeping cherry adds to the charm. Further down the valley a small diversion takes you to the Odaki & Medaki waterfalls and on to the hamlet of Otsumago (Greater Tsumago) leaving the dense woodland behind. 
The path now joins a small road with small traditional farms scattered both sides of the valley and finally descends into Tsumago itself. By this time the rain had cleared with the cloud lingering amongst the mountain tops. Tsumago consist of some sixty period houses, mainly commercial premises of shops, restaurants, inns and two museums. The picture shows the main road through Tsumago. At one end of the town is an original noticeboard used by the Bakufu government to announce new laws and prohibitions and a nearby inn with a lovely garden. 
The picture shows the elevated notice board and inn garden beyond. We took a short journey on the last bus of the day to Nagiso and the train back through the valley to Nagoya and Kyoto. A note for potential travellers – Magome is about just under 2000′ and Tsumago is 1400′ above sea level hence it is much easier to travel in the direction described. The journey takes about three hours at a leisurely pace and allowing for an hour in each town it enables the walk to be conducted as a day trip from Kyoto. Despite the early hour of the last bus from Tsumago to Nagiso, it is only a further two miles down the valley for those more robust walkers. A grand day out was had by one and all, well worth the effort.
© David Burgess/ Images: Jade Pavilions
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